We made it to the coast! Not without inciodent though. We left early in the morning, very early again. 5am again in fact. It was bitterly cold and our aim was to get to sea level.
We knew our final assault on the Andes would take us to our highest altitude so far on this odyssey, as we drove past icicles and hairy Llamas oj the ascent. I cant quite describe how cold it was at 7am at 4800m. I know I couldnt feel my fingers when grinding up he behemouth of a mountain we were scaling, but I have it on good authority that it was even colder at the back of the mototaxi (not with a sleeping bag as a granny blanket i bet).
Once we started to descend, as the sun started to also blaze, The Incaredibles spirits were truely lifted, especially as we managed to clock a new speed record for Betsy. 90 kph. Now this may not seem like much to those used to driving their high powered sports car, but if you are used to a sedate 20kph uphill in 1st gear, then our speed going down was a real white knuckle ride.
Our progress though is never just serene. This time we encountered a road block. There was a sign that stated the road that funally got us off the mountain was closed between 6am and 6pm. It was 3.30pm. After much discussion with the high priestess of the road (Moira called her the "Peruvian bitch holding the sign") and the mandatory local bobby, and little joy (where's a demented kiwi when you need one), we decided to have a few beers, and chat (upsetting and amusing) with the locals. The aussies put up a hammock between the two taxis, and the hours ticked by fairly quickly. Once the all clear was given, we set off at a tremedous pace on some quite horrific road to try and get off the mountain before it got dark. Unfortunately before much progress was made, there appeared another road block. Quite infuriating, and our anger levels rose when we were informed, there would be another hour delay. This time we just ramraided the blockade,and sent local road transort workers fying. We meant busuness. Finally we were approaching sea level, and after getting to Casma, ready for bed, Moira teased us with an alluring beach resort a further 20k up the coast. We decided to go for it, but an hour later when we got there, at around 10pm, we realised it was off season and no restaurants or hotels were open for our custom. We decided to set up camp, as two tents were hastily put up on the sea front, as beer and crisps were procured, and we laughed the night away in the moonlight reminising about the previous minutes, hours and days, before letting off a few fireworks to let the whole sleepy coastal town know that we were here..I for one was just happy that the tent, air matress, and sleeping bag I ecarried to and through Peru was for good reason.
The next morning, still high on reaching the coast in what seems like great time to complete the remaing 600km to our finish point in Piura (this has changed from Ayabaca as everyone seems to be flying home from there rather than a 6 hour bus ride further east), we opted for a leisurely breakfast of fish, chips, eggs and bread...and set off in pursuit of a better beach.
The main coastal road, the pan american highway is a rather boring straight piece of road. We can go rather quick on it for a mototaxi, but the cross wind and fast moving trucks going the opposite direction make it a hazardous task.
What made it even more hazardous, was the front end of the bike going dolally everytime we came off the throttle. Quite a scary experience, which had to be checked immidiately. The findings were simply shocking, the front wheel bolt was hanging on by the end of the thread...ready to come off and with it the wheel in a about kilometer (and that at 70kph)....this was a near miss and a half.
After much tightening of chains, screws, nuts, and buttocks, we were ready to roll again. I took the controls and we were whizing our way towards Truiljos. Our progress was interrupted yet again, when the boys in blue came up our bavksides flashing lights and blaring sirens. We pulled over and were informed that we were not allowed on this road. Our vehicle docs were then checked. Now there are two pieces of paper that sit atop the mantlepiece at home. My driving licence and International Driving Permit. I'd forgotton these two docs in my last minute rush to make my flight weeks ago. They hadnt been requested or looked until right now, from the myriad police who had stopped us throughout the adventure so far. Needless to say i was being done, and our Betsy was being threatened with impound, and i played this really bad, miscalculating my conversions and bribing the policeman well over 100 pounds when a tenner would have probably done sufficiently. Well we live and learn, and this was an expensive mistake. The whole process took enough time, to think some dinner and an early night was the best option (nobody fancied night driving on this road) as we weaved our way through the noisy traffic jams of the well heeled city of Truijilo.
We aim to start early tomorrow, drive some 400km plus and go past the finish point, to relax on the beach and wait for the other teams, some as far as two days. behind us. But if these last ten days or so has taught me anything, the old adage of "the best laid plans of mice and men often go awry".
Make sure you follow us through the home straight, and check our google map page (titled "where are we") on our blogspot. Until next time, this is a slightly poorer and an infinitely more embarrassed Avi Incaredible saying Adios.
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Excellent news! Thanks so much and enjoy the beach!
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